Cefalu, I love you!
Where Sicilian magic meets fine dining and golden hours on the water.
There’s a kind of glow that settles over Cefalù by late afternoon - warm, golden, and ever-so-soft, like the inside of a peach. The kind of light that slows you down, makes you look around, and say yes, this is why we came.
Nestled between the Tyrrhenian Sea and the cliffs of northern Sicily, Cefalù is one of those places that charms without trying. Cobbled lanes that lead to the water. A dramatic Norman cathedral that rises out of stone and heat. And the sea - oh, the sea - always just at the end of every street.
My mum who is visiting from Australia, who’s been my travel partner through Italy for over a decade. We promised ourselves a day or two of nothing but swims, seafood, and sunshine. We got that - and then some.
What to Know Before You Go
Getting There
Cefalù is about an hour’s train ride from Palermo, making it a perfect stop on a Sicily itinerary. Trains run frequently, and the journey hugs the coastline - stunning from start to finish.
Best Time to Visit
Late May through early October is ideal for beach days and boat tours, but July and August get crowded (and hot). June or September offer the best balance of sunshine and space. We visited in June.
Where to Stay
Stay near the old town or by the beach - everything is walkable. We loved being just a few minutes from both the water and the cobblestone laneways.
Good to Know
The town gets quieter during siesta hours (roughly 1–4 pm), so plan meals and shopping around that.
Book restaurants ahead of time, especially in high season.
The beach is a mix of public and private lidos, so bring cash for loungers or find your own quiet spot.
Pack reef shoes if you plan to swim near the rocks or caves — they help!
To Eat
Karma - For breakfast or brunch that isn’t a pastry!
Tucked just off the main drag, Karma is your go-to for slow mornings. We started here with Avocado, eggs anyway you like and great coffee served with a smile. Tucked away in a little courtyard it’s a great little place to watch the town wake up.
Qualia
A Michelin-starred restaurant that still manages to feel grounded in the Sicilian soul. Everything here is thoughtful and restrained - but never precious. The tasting menu took us through land, sea, and memory. My advice? Order the wine pairing and lean all the way in. Make sure to make a reservation- they are closed on Sundays!
Locanda del Mariano
Simple, local, and full of flavour. The kind of place where everything feels effortless but deeply delicious. Between us, we ordered meat, seafood, and vegetarian dishes - and not a single plate disappointed (yes, we shared them all). Even the kids’ meal was thoughtful and tasty. Honest food, warm service, and a menu that makes you wish you had room for one more course.
To Drink
Zagara Juice Bar
Right in the heart of town, this became our regular stop for everything from fruit salads to Aperol spritzes and icy smoothies. Vibrant, fresh, and perfect for a mid-afternoon reset after a long swim or market stroll.
Enoteca Le Petit Tonneau
An intimate wine bar overlooking the sunset, order a charcuterie board and you’ll be set for a few hours. We sipped Gin and Tonic’s as the sun dipped below the rooftops. Book in advance for 6:30pm to watch the sunset and the beach come alive!
Out at Sea
One of the true highlights of our time in Cefalù was a mini boat tour we booked through Get Your Guide. Run by a local husband-and-wife team, the heart of this family-owned business shines through - from the captain’s warm personality to the laid-back, thoughtful experience they’ve created.
The boat winds past rocky cliffs and glides through sea caves before stopping for swims in crystal-clear waters. Just when you think it can’t get better, aperitivo is served on board as the sun begins to dip below the horizon. It was dreamy — the kind of moment you tuck away and return to in your mind.
Family-friendly, relaxed, and just the right amount of time. Highly recommend this tour if you’re visiting.
Cefalù, I love you - for your pace, your people, your peachy light. If you’re planning a Sicilian adventure, promise me you won’t skip it.
Better yet, save this post for your next Italian escape.
More from Sicily soon.