Slow, Salty Slice of Sicily:Syracuse & Ortigia
Seafood, Salty feet and Slow Living
There’s something about Sicily that seeps into your bones - the scent of citrus groves drifting through the air, the golden hue of sunlight warming centuries-old stone, the echo of conversation in narrow laneways, and the rhythmic pull of the sea. And nowhere is this feeling more alive than in Ortigia, the ancient island heart of Syracuse.
Built over layers of history, Ortigia is a sun-washed maze of crumbling Baroque facades, cobbled piazzas, crayon-coloured fishing boats, and restaurants tucked behind shutters. It’s compact, walkable, and utterly romantic - a place where you can lose track of time entirely (in the very best way). Whether you’re watching light bounce off the sea walls at golden hour, sharing seafood crudo under the stars, or swimming like a local in the deep blue, Ortigia is where Sicily slows down and shows off.
3 Nights in Ortigia (Stay: Hotel Gutkowski)
We spent three dreamy nights in Ortigia, flying into Catania from Rome, collecting a rental car, and driving just over an hour to the island’s sun-drenched seafront. It was the perfect base to begin our Sicilian adventure - slow, salty, and full of charm. We chose Hotel Gutkowski for its relaxed, understated style and unbeatable location right on the water. Housed in two beautifully restored fishermen’s houses, it felt both thoughtful and nostalgic - a place that reminded me of my childhood, growing up in a welcoming and charming bed and breakfast.
Our family room had a sea view and was steps from everything we wanted to explore. Breakfast was included and featured seasonal, local produce, served with that breezy Sicilian ease. Just a few minutes’ walk from the hotel was a rocky swimming cove where we’d spend every afternoon diving into turquoise waters and soaking up the sun. It became our daily ritual - and one of our favourite memories. We’d return in a heartbeat.
Where to Eat + Drink:
Pasticceria Artale- A beloved family-run pasticceria near the Duomo, serving some of the best ricotta cannoli we’ve ever tasted-freshly piped, rich, and unforgettable. Expect traditional Sicilian sweets made with heart and heritage. Grab a coffee, something sweet, and a spot out front to soak in the magic of Ortigia.
Macallè Sicilian Bistrot – Contemporary Sicilian cuisine with deep roots and an amazing wine list. The owner runs his own food tours and the service was welcoming and family-friendly. Fresh seafood and local produce are reimagined with elegance and a touch of “nonna’s kitchen meets modern soul.” A must-book ahead and also a great spot for a date night.
Casa Trimarchi – A local gem focused on organic, farm-to-table fare and natural wines. Quietly refined, with a true sense of passion for their produce. We had some of our best pasta on the island here. We were lucky to stumble across this place early, but it filled up within the hour- book ahead!
Apollonion Osteria da Carlo – A tiny seafood sanctuary where the dishes just keep arriving, service was simple. Expect oysters, crudo, fritto misto, grilled fish, and more; the exploded Pistachio Cheesecake was unforgettable to finish.
Gutkowskino – This intimate rooftop spot inside Hotel Gutkowski reflects the same understated charm as the hotel. The seasonal menu leans on vegetables, seafood, and simple, clean flavours. Ideal for a sunset drink or relaxed dinner.
Caseificio Borderi – An Ortigia institution and an experience in itself. The team behind the counter are warm, generous, and passionate -handing out mozzarella tastings while you wait and happily crafting panini to suit whatever you’re craving. These sandwiches are enormous (you’ve been warned), packed with fresh local ingredients and serious flavour. We took ours down to the waterfront, found a sunny spot, and paired them with icy lemon sodas - pure Sicilian bliss.
Cortile Verga – Sip crafted cocktails by the mixologists in the courtyard of a 16th-century palazzo. It’s atmospheric, refined, and comes with fresh oysters and candlelight. You don’t seem to be able to make reservations, it opens up at 6:30pm and was the perfect aperitvo hour and special occasion pre dinner drink.
What to Do:
Ortiga is made for wandering, but there are a few local experiences that are absolutely worth carving out time for:
Take a Boat and Cave Tour Around the Island: If you’re craving a refreshing dip and a new perspective of Ortigia’s coastline, this boat and cave tour is the perfect pace. It’s just the right amount of time - long enough to cruise past sea caves, circle the island, and jump into clear turquoise waters, but short enough to fit easily into a relaxed day. It was really family-friendly with my children and had lifejackets and a safe swimming spot for younger kids. Book the tour here
Catch a Traditional Puppet Show: The Opera dei Pupi is a charming and historic Sicilian art form that’s still lovingly performed in Ortigia. Tickets include the option to explore the small but fascinating puppet museum after the show - just one extra euro per person and well worth it. The craftsmanship, characters, and storytelling are captivating, even if you don’t speak Italian.
Visit the Morning Market: Ortigia’s open-air market on Via Emmanuele de Benedictis is a riot of colour and flavour. Come early and watch locals shop for just-caught fish, sun-ripened tomatoes, and salty capers. Grab a snack or a picnic lunch - or a champagne oyster lunch for less than 6 euros!
Swim Like a Local: There’s no beach in Ortigia, but you’ll find sunbathers stretched out on the rocks or diving from stone platforms straight into the sea. Pack a towel, water shoes if you like, and go where the locals do.
Right next to Hotel Gutkowski was the perfect swim spot to spend hours in the water. We took our panini’s from Caseificio Borderi and spent the afternoon here.
Scogliera Lungomare di Levante – The locals’ favourite for diving straight into turquoise water with a view of the fortress.
Ortigia has a way of drawing you in slowly, then holding you there - in a haze of sunshine, salt, and stories. It’s a place where days unfold gently, meals linger long into the night, and memories are made between swims, strolls, and shared plates. We left feeling sun-kissed and soul-full, already dreaming of our return to this golden little island that captures the heart of Sicily so effortlessly. Our next Sicilian stop was Cefalu- read all about it here
